By Schuntlester Sotero
The banquet of the 10th Sabores de Visayas was definitely a moment I savored. As an Ilonggo, it was truly an experience of why Iloilo is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy and the “Food Haven of the Philippines”.
Through the humble initiative of Chef Rafael “Tibong” Jardeleza Jr., the night featured top tier-chefs and kusineros not only from Iloilo and the Visayas, but the rest of the Philippines.
The collaboration between the country’s renowned chefs and Ilonggo kusineros created a surprising banquet that featured Ilonggo heritage cuisine and fusion cuisine.
Though it was a buffet style dinner, what made it special were the new takes on very familiar Ilonggo and Filipino dishes.
I started with my own personal bias for plant-based food. The inasal at inadobo na takway served by Chef Ariel Castañeda Jr. of Richmonde Hotel Iloilo and his kusineros amazed me. Takway itself is very known among Ilonggos and even Ilonggos in Mindanao. But the takway mimicked the appearance and taste of isaw, one of the country’s favorite street foods. The skewed takway that was glazed with bbq sauce was just amazing and it was healthy too.
Of course, I didn’t skip the mouth-watering lechon karnero (roasted lamb) by Chef Panky Lopez and the kusineros of Breakthrough Restaurant.
And yes, there was the concicillo lechon by Chef Margarita Forés (Asia’s best female chef in 2016) in collaboration with Iloilo’s very own May May Lechon! Cooked with cerveza negra, I enjoyed devouring the soft meat and crispy skin, which you can hear the crunch as you chew.
It was also a delight seeing highly-respected Chef Sandy Daza and Ilonggo Paul Aligaen thinly slicing the rib-eye steak and serving it to the guests, who patiently waited in line.
Alongside was the inasal team by celebrity Chef Myke Tatung of Simpol and Jeff Ticao of Panabor Iloilo restaurant. The BBQ pork, innards, shrimps, and scallops were perfectly paired with sinamak (the spicy vinegar dip).
The jamon of Iloilo’s very own Chef OJ Salazar III was tender, sweet and juicy. Paired with whole wheat bread, I think it can make a good breakfast as well.
The lechon and the inasal brought out the fiesta vibe of the night.
There were Ilonggo classics that were heavily Spanish influenced including the valenciana and pork humba by Iloilo’s veteran Chef Jose Wilson Esperancilla and Chef Patrick Go.
Chef Kalel Chan with the Hotel del Rio team led by Sous Chef Keith Bianson had a well-curated menu of paella negra and the lengua estofado (the saucy ox tongue).
The sabaw (soup) section of KALAN.PH team led by brothers Karl and Raffy Hibionada with Paul Frias of Colegio del Sagrado also offered Ilonggo favorites. The Pancit Molo and the kasudlan sang baka (cow innards) were definitely comfort food during that cool and rainy night.
Chef Mikel Zaguirre teamed up with Ilongga Frances Aimee Tiu Villanueva for the appetizers and side dishes including atsara made from papaya and green mangoes and the different types of kinilaw.
Coffee and tablea (native chocolate drink) added warmth to the night as these hot drinks surely woke up the senses. Balay Tablea of Cabatuan even had a demonstration in grounding the tablea blocks before it was made into a drink and served it to guests.
Who doesn’t like sweets? Maridel’s of Maridel Uygongco had an array of cakes and new twist to local delicacies such as ginat-an and maja blanca.
There was also the Capiz pusô or the sticky rice delicacy from Pan-ay, Capiz.
Batchoy is almost synonymous with Iloilo. With the creativity of Chef Andrea Valdez Gorriceta, there was the very surprising La Paz Ice Cream Batchoy. While the staple batchoy is always served hot, this was cool and creamy. I never thought that the flavor of batchoy can be an enjoyable treat. Some guests couldn’t resist and came back for a second or even third serving.
Baking Studio by Theo also had variety of breads: from classic sourdough to focaccia, which had stuffed filling such as bacon in pesto sauce, bacon in red sauce, shitake mushroom with bacon, and many more.
As a one-night banquet with smooth jazz music on the background, Sabores de Visayas: Diez Edicion was a holistic way that showcased how food can bring us all together.
Indeed, the collaboration between the country’s renowned chefs and Ilonggo kusineros not only proved Iloilo’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title, but also a way to appreciate the bounty of our farms and seas.
